From Oct 25 to Nov 21 on the ground floor of DOVER STREET MARKET GINZA, the works of jewelry brand HEAVEN is on special display. For the event, the Indonesia-born designer Heaven Tanudiredja visited Japan, and we asked him about the story behind his creations.
- Tell us what motivated you, the images that you had for the 2013-14 AW collections.
Heaven: The theme for 2013-14 AW is "beautiful chaos." I had a friend who was suffering from depression, so I did some research on mental disorders. I wanted to dig deeper into their minds and expanded on the image of travelling through their psychological world.
Heaven’s newest works, dubbed “ANOREXIA NERVOSA”, “PYROMANIA”, and so on, sound radically provocative just by hearing their names. Yet, as soon as you take sight of the elaborate bold accessories, you will be struck by the “beautiful chaos” that Heaven sees: the kaleidoscopic illusions that unfold in the minds of the dwellers who possess a unique world of their own. To express the bubbles that autistic persons withdraw in, the current installation beholds Heaven’s handcrafted jewelries in spherical showcases.
Surprisingly, Heaven started out his career in womenswear before entering the jewelry-making world. While he was still studying at Esmod Jakarta, Heaven gained actual experience by working as a tailor. Upon graduation, Heaven pursued to train in womenswear at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium.
- Tell us about your internship at John Galliano’s Dior Haute Couture when you were still in the Royal Academy. And how was it working at Dries Van Noten’s atelier after graduating?
Heaven: At Dior, I was shown the great world of fantasy that mode creates. At the atelier of Dries, I learned the skill of balancing creation and business. It was actually Dries who led me to jewelry design at a time when I only had my eyes on womenswear.
Later, Heaven launched his own jewelry-making atelier in Antwerp. Each of the intricately ornate sculptural accessory, for which Heaven is now internationally acclaimed for, is delicately handcrafted into breathtaking piece of art. Currently, Heaven’s works can be purchased at world class select shops such as 10 Corso Como and Barneys New York.
Heaven’s elaborate jewelries are also accredited by Pierre Berge, the lifetime partner- both romantically and business-wise- of the late Yves Saint Laurent. Possessing love for beauty and keen eyes on art, Berge and Saint Laurent had collected a wide range of artworks for over many decades. After the death of the legendary fashion designer, Berge put up the massive art collection on auction at Christie’s, setting the record-breaking sales for a private collection. It was in Berge’s own auction house that two of Heaven’s jewelries were sold.
- This year, you’ve collaborated with Antwerp-based designer Bruno Pieters and created an exclusive six-piece-collection for his new eco-conscious fashion-site "honest by." Share with us your thoughts on what we should do to achieve a sustainable society.
Heaven: It’s been inspiring to work with honest by. It is a big challenge to pursue uncompromised creations while being aware of the environment and succeed in the business. You have to make each of the process clear and transparent, and it’s not so easy to establish a stable product line with that. But I find the pursuit significantly meaningful, especially when business is considered the top priority in the world today.
Just as the Greek god of Hermes effortlessly transits between the world of the gods and the mortals, Heaven is not bounded by the boundaries of couture and jewelry, art and products. We cannot wait to see the new era of jewelry Heaven is going to lay.