On Sept 23, Japanese brand “Anrealage” presented a show for the first time at Paris Fashion Week. The Ecole nationale superieure des Beaux-Arts was the venue for the 2015 SS show under the theme “Shadow.”
The show began with the appearance of two models. The hems of patchwork jackets and skirts were cut in a slanted angle. White was used for the front of the designs and black for the back. The two colors were introduced to express light and shadows. The white parts of the designs are detachable like an apron. “Even when the substance disappears, its shadow remains,” explained designer Kunihiko Morinaga. The shadows of pearls and studs decorating the clothes were added as accents. And the same for shoes.
Models wearing symmetrical white dresses followed. As they reached the center of the stage, pale lighting shone onto them. A few moments later, when the models came out from under the light, their dresses had changed into a gray color, and the shadows of their arms were printed onto the designs. The audience applauded when they saw this brilliant effect.
The effect with the lighting is carried on from the 2013-14 A/W season where photochromic was used in the designs. Dyes in capsules are cleverly hidden inside the white-colored designs, which change color when shone with UV rays. “Previously, I was only available to express pastel colors, but after two years of development, I was able to bring out the color black. We perfected this technique just last month, just in time for our first show in Paris,” said Morinaga. Not only do the clothes change color, but they also reproduce the prints of shadows of body parts and clothes layered on top of the designs.
For the finale, UV-ray laser beams were projected onto white clothing to create patchwork patterns on the spot.
By combining the latest technology with Morinaga’s patchwork and laser-cutting techniques, he was able to “create new values based on his past experiences.” Morinaga shed emotional tears as he ended his first show in Paris.
“The time when Japanese designers first came to Paris in the 80s seems like such a long time ago, but we still have certain perspectives and skills which allow us to create clothes that make us different and define us. It’s not just about creating beauty, but also about creating new types of values and possibly even changing the world. I want to astound the world. I wanted to do something in relation to black to bring back the memories of the 80s and also introduce light as a theme for my first show here. That’s why I introduced shadows as a representation of the color black.” “I want this show to also succeed from a business aspect,” he continued.
Shige Kaneko produced the show; Katsuya Kamo handled hair and makeup, Souta Yamaguchi, styling and Ippei Sugihara, music. Daito Manabe of Rhizomatiks joined the team to handle laser-lighting.